Equatorial Countercurrent

Pilot Peak, located in northeastern Nevada, is a relatively unknown mountain with both historic and geographic significance. The mountain rises to 10,720 feet, and sits at the western edge of the Great Salt Lake Desert.

The mountain has always served as an important landmark for travelers attempting to cross the salt desert into the Great Basin region. In his pathfinding expedition across the salt flats in 1845, John C. Fremont spied the peak from the Cedar Mountains far to the east and sent Kit Carson ahead in the direction of the mountain. Carson crossed the desert and lit a bonfire at the eastern base of Pilot Peak signalling his successful passage.

The infamous Hastings Cutoff, which led California-bound pioneers around the southern shore of the Great Salt Lake instead of north of the lake, also passes right along the southern base of Pilot Peak. In 1846 the Donner Party followed Hastings Cutoff in their attempt to make California. After a grueling salt desert passage, they camped at the springs at the base of Pilot Peak to recuperate.

Pilot Peak is also noted by geographers and mountaineers for its prominence. While not comparatively high in absolute terms, it is quite high relative to the surrounding terrain. This relief characteristic of mountains is known as topographic prominence. At 5,276 feet, Pilot Peak ranks 32nd on the list of most prominent peaks in the contiguous United States. This makes it more prominent than other better known mountains, including South Sister in Oregon, Pikes Peak in Colorado, and Mt. Nebo and Mt. Timpanogos in Utah.

Climbing Pilot Peak can be a rewarding but challenging expedition for the motivated peakbagger. There is no established trail or single route to the top, and the mountain is noted for expansive boulder fields, cliffs, scree, and talus that make ascent difficult and descent potentially treacherous. There are no reliable water sources in the area in summer and fall. The mountain is very isolated. There is no cell phone coverage available except at the summit, and many days or even weeks can pass without another person in the vicinity. By reviewing the summit log it can be estimated that perhaps 10 people climb the mountain every year.

The most common route up begins at Miners Canyon, on the southeast side of the mountain. A dirt road runs north-south along the east side of Pilot Peak. This road can be accessed off Interstate 80 by turning north at Utah exit 4 east of Wendover. Right before crossing a second cattleguard on this road, a jeep trail turns off to the left and winds almost 5 miles up into Miners Canyon. This jeep trail is quite rough, and may require 4-wheel drive briefly and high clearance. The road passes an old mine shaft on the left and a spring on the right as the canyon is entered.

A northwest climb from this point allows access to the south ridge off the summit, which is traversed to the top. Numerous cliffs and obstacles must be passed around on this route, and the west side of the summit ridge traverse can be steep in places. Bighorn sheep and antelope might be seen during the climb. At the summit there are numerous rock cairns, and a mailbox with some summit registers. The most recent register was placed years ago by the Sierra Club Desert Peaks section, but other registers record entries back to 1963. It occurred to me that an excellent project for a motivated individual, including an Eagle Scout candidate, would be to retrieve the registers and digitize the entries before they become completely unreadable with age. Some of the entries make quite entertaining reading. It is apparent that some people have ascended routes on the east and west sides of the mountain instead of up the south ridge. These alternative routes appear quite challenging.

The view from the summit is, of course, amazing. On a clear day one can see all the way across the salt flats to the Wasatch Mountains in the east. To the west lays the expansive basin and range country. There is a settlement that can be seen in the valley to the west, which is Pilot Peak Ranch.

Descending the mountain can be exceedingly difficult, given the seemingly endless scree, talus, and boulder fields. If returning to Miners Canyon, it is important to stay relatively high on the south ridge and avoid dropping down too quickly into the large S-shaped canyon on the southeast face of the mountain. This is a large boulder rockfall canyon with a cliff on its southern edge that prevents a crossing over to the Miners Canyon trailhead until one is well beneath the destination. Descending this rockfall is exceedingly difficult; I was left with mangled hiking boots and poles, lost sunglasses, torn ligaments, and a broken toe to show for this mistake in descent.

Overall, climbing Pilot Peak can be a fun and rewarding experience on a remote desert mountain with both historic and geographic significance.


Southeast face of Pilot Peak.
Avoid descending the large S-shaped canyon in the middle of the photo. This is a boulder rockfall canyon that is very difficult to descend.












Boulder field rockfall on Pilot Peak. This stuff is seemingly endless on this mountain. Needless to say, it makes for a treacherous ascent and even more difficult descent.













Wear sturdy boots. The endless jagged boulders can mangle hiking boots. Perhaps bring an extra pair just in case.














To the east from Pilot Peak summit. On a clear day, the Silver Island, Cedar, Oquirrh, and Wasatch ranges in Utah can be seen.














At the summit of Pilot Peak. Some rock cairns help with shelter from the strong winds at 10,720 feet.















Miners Canyon Trailhead. Looking east at dusk, Pilot Peak casts a shadow on the western face of the Silver Island mountains.














Miners Canyon. Parked at trailhead.















To the south. This is the ridge to be climbed to the summit. The hills in the middle left of the photo are the Leppy Hills. Wendover is on the other side of these hills.














Pilot Range. To the north, into Idaho.
















Summit of Pilot Peak to the west. Basin and range country.